A mile-wide sheet of the Zambezi falling into a hundred-metre crack in the basalt. The local name means the smoke that thunders, and both halves are accurate.
What it is
The Zambezi, 1,700 metres wide, dropping about 108 metres into a narrow gorge that runs at right angles to the river. It is neither the tallest nor the widest waterfall on earth but it produces the largest single sheet of falling water, and the spray column is visible from 50km away.
The Lozi name is Mosi-oa-Tunya, the smoke that thunders. David Livingstone reached it in 1855 and renamed it after his queen, and both names are now official.
The border runs down the middle, so it belongs to Zambia and Zimbabwe equally.
Zambia or Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe holds roughly two-thirds of the falls’ face and gives the classic panoramic views along a rainforest path with sixteen viewpoints. It is the better side for seeing the whole thing, and it holds water year-round.
Zambia puts you closer and gets you wetter — the Knife Edge Bridge takes you right into the spray — and it has Livingstone Island and Devil’s Pool, a natural rock pool on the very lip of the falls that you can swim in at low water. In the dry season the Zambian side can reduce to a trickle.
The honest answer is to do both. A day pass (KAZA UNIVISA where available, or a day visitor pass) lets you cross the bridge on foot between the two, which takes about twenty minutes and is one of the better border crossings anywhere.
Water levels, month by month
February to May: peak flow, fed by the rains upstream. Up to 500 million litres a minute. Spectacular, deafening, and you will be soaked and unable to see much of the falls themselves through the spray. Ponchos are useless; wear swimming clothes.
June to August: high but declining. Good compromise — enough water to be impressive, enough visibility to photograph.
September to December: low water. The eastern cataract on the Zambian side may dry entirely, the rock face is exposed, and Devil’s Pool and Livingstone Island are open.
What else there is
White-water rafting on the Zambezi below the falls is among the best commercially run big water anywhere, and only runs at lower water — roughly July to February.
Bungee jumping from the Victoria Falls Bridge, 111 metres.
Microlight and helicopter flights over the falls, which are the only way to grasp the shape of the gorge system.
Sunset cruises on the upper Zambezi, with hippos and elephants on the banks.
Mosi-oa-Tunya and Zambezi national parks either side have white rhino and elephant, and Chobe in Botswana is an easy day trip.
Practical
Malaria is present; take prophylaxis.
The rainforest path on the Zimbabwe side sprays you constantly at high water. Waterproof bags for cameras and phones are sold everywhere and are necessary.
Baboons in both parks will take food from your hands and your bag. Do not carry visible food.
