
Animals, On Their Terms
Wildlife
The Serengeti migration, Borneo, Antarctica and the Pantanal — where to see animals living rather than performing, and how not to make it worse by turning up.
3 places
Northern Tanzania
The Serengeti
Thirty thousand square kilometres of grassland carrying the largest land mammal migration on earth, plus the highest lion density anywhere.

1,000km off the mainland
The Galápagos Islands
Nineteen volcanic islands on the equator where nothing has learned to be afraid of people. The animals do not move when you approach, and that is the entire experience.

Via Ushuaia and the Drake Passage
Antarctica
The only continent with no permanent population and no government, reached by two days across the roughest sea on earth, in a season four months long.